Hexagon Yoyo Puff Rug

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Hexagon Yoyo Puff Rug by Knotted Mom

Hexagon Yoyo Puff Rug

I absolutely fell in love with the yoyo puff stitch, but was struggling with ideas on what to make with them.  I finally decided on a rug and the Hexagon Yoyo Puff Rug was the end result.  This was the first time I ever made a crocheted rug using a non-slip rug backing, but I am completely exuberant with the outcome.  You can make all kinds of things with crochet yoyo puffs, so get creative.  Remember, that you can also use any size yarn and hook to create numerous different looks.  I can’t wait to see all of your creations!

Yoyo Puff Stitch Tutorial

Hexagon Yoyo Puff Rug Instructions

Materials: Worsted weight yarn (shown in Red Heart With Love – Fruit Punch), darning needle, non-slip rug backing, size J 6.0 mm crochet hook

Yoyo Puff

Round 1: Ch 5, sl st in first ch to form a ring, ch 8 (counts as first TrTr), TrTr 19 more times into the ring, sl st in top of ch 8. (20 TrTrs)

Round 2: Ch 3, tr in next st (counts as first tr dec), tr dec over next 2 sts around, sl st in top of ch 3, fasten off. (10 tr decs)

For a video tutorial of the Crochet Yoyo Puff visit Knotted Mom’s Youtube channel here.

Assembly: Make 37 yoyo puffs and arrange in a hexagon shape (refer to fig 1) and tie to non-slip rug backing using leftover tails.  With darning needle, sew sides and tops and bottoms of yoyos together to provide extra stiffness.  Trim any excess yarn and trim rug backing to desired size behind the yoyos.

Hexagon Yoyo Puff Rug Diagram
Figure 1

PDF Download

As always, you can download a PDF version for the Hexagon Yoyo Puff Rug here.

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Thomas the Tank Engine Crochet Hat

Thomas the Tank Engine Crochet Hat

Hoping you will love this Thomas the Tank Engine crochet hat as much as we do.  It has been my son’s favorite for a few years now.  He developed a love of all things trains, including Thomas the Tank Engine, when he was still an infant.  I just knew I had to design something that he would enjoy wearing, and I’m happy to now share this crochet hat pattern with you.

Download a printer friendly pdf here!

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Thomas the Tank Engine Crochet Hat

Size: 12 months – toddler

Materials: Size G crochet hook, scissors, yarn needle, worsted weight yarn in blue, gray, red, black, white, and yellow, piece of white felt for mouth (optional).

Stitches used: magic loop, chain, slip stitch, single crochet, double crochet, decrease double crochet, decrease single crochet

Abbreviations: st – stitch, sts – sts, sk – skip, ch – chain, sl st – slip stitch, sc – single crochet, dc – double crochet, dec – decrease

 

Hat

Using blue yarn, start with a magic loop

Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), 9 dc into magic loop, sl st to top of ch 3. (10 dc)

Round 2: Ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in next st and each st around, sl st to top of ch 3. (20 dc)

Round 3: Ch 3, dc in same st, *dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, repeat from * around, sl st to top of ch 3. (30 dc)

Round 4: Ch 3, dc in same st, *dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, repeat from * around, sl st in top of ch 3. (40 dc)

Round 5: Ch 3, dc in same st, *dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st, repeat from * around, sl st in top of ch 3. (50 dc)

Rounds 6-11: Ch 3, dc in each st around, sl st in top of ch 3. (50 dc)

12: With gray, repeat round 6. (50 dc)

13-14: With red, repeat round 6. Fasten off at end of round 14. (50 dc)

 

Ear Flaps

Row 1: Join with red in 10th st from first st of round 14, ch 3, dc in next 9 sts, turn. (10 dc)

Row 2: Ch 3, dec dc over next 2 sts, dc in next 5 sts, dec over last 2 sts, turn. (8 dc)

Row 3: Ch 3, dec over next 2 sts, dc in next 3 sts, dec over last two sts, turn. (6 dc)

Row 4: Ch 3, dec over next 2 sts, dc in next st, dec over last 2 sts, turn. (4 dc)

Row 5: Ch 3, dec over next 2 sts, dc in last st, fasten off. (3 dc)

Sk 18 sts around brim of hat and begin second earflap.  Follow instructions for first earflap.  Sc evenly around brim of hat and ear flaps.

 

Buffers/Windows/Eyes

For buffers complete bow rounds in black.  For windows complete round 1 in black and round 2 in yellow, for whites of eyes complete both rounds in white, and for pupils complete only round 1 in black and fasten off (do not complete round 2).

Round 1: Form a magic loop, ch 3, 5 dc in loop, sl st to top of ch 3. (6 dc)

Round 2: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), sc in same st, 2 sc in each st around, sl st to ch 1, fasten off. (12 sc)

Face

With gray, repeat rows 1-4 of hat.

Smokestack

Round 1: With black make a magic loop, ch 1, 5 sc in loop, do not sl st to ch 1 (working in continuous rounds). (6 sc)

Round 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12 sc)

Round 3: 2 sc in first st, *1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, repeat from * around. (18 sc)

Rounds 4-6: Sc in each st around. (18 sc)

Round 7: Dec over first 2 sts, *sc in next st, dec over next 2 sts, repeat from * around. (12 sc)

Round 8: Dec over first 2 sts, *dec over the next 2 sts, repeat from * around. (6 sc)

Rounds 9-11: Sc in each st around, fasten off after the last st in round 11.  (6 sc)

Stuff firmly.  Fold opening in half and stitch closed.

Assembly

Sew on and embroider as pictured.  Add tassels to ear flaps if desired.

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Free Saint Patrick’s Day Crochet Patterns

Free Saint Patrick’s Day Crochet Patterns

Did you forget to make a crochet project for Saint Patrick’s Day?  Have no fear, Knotted Mom has a list of patterns that you could make in under an hour to less than a day.  So get out your hooks and your green yarn and whip up your new lucky charm.  The list of patterns will run from simplest to most difficult, so take your pick according to how much time you have.  Keep in mind that these are not original Knotted Mom patterns, so I cannot ensure their accuracy.  If you encounter an error or have a question while completing these patterns, please reach out to the original pattern designer first.

Crochet Shamrock Tutorial

crochet-shamrock-st-patricks-euQ-o

This pattern is by Bag-O-Day Crochet.  This is an easy pattern you can complete quickly, especially with having this great video tutorial to give you the step-by-step instructions.

Crochet Leprechaun Hat (Pencil Decoration)

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This adorable pencil topper is the perfect gift for an elementary-aged child.  This is quick to work up, and you only need a small amount of yarn to complete this project.  You can find the written instructions here.  The pattern even includes nice pictures of the process.

Saint Patrick’s Day Fascinator

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Here’s a pattern for all of you Ravelry enthusiasts out there.  Make sure you have an old headband to complete this total look.  If you don’t have one, you could also work up this pattern to use as a table ornament or decor piece.  You can download the free pattern here.

Pot O Gold Hat

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This pattern comes to you from the Pattern Paradise crochet blog.  Using a hat pattern previously published on their blog, you will add this adorable applique to bring you good luck.  You could also use this applique on other clothing items or add a pin to make it removable.  You can find the pattern on Pattern Paradise’s website.

Leprechaun Hat Beer Cozy

saint-patrick-day-beer-cozy-54

How adorable are these beer cozies made to look like little leprechaun hats!  You can get the free pattern here.  This pattern also includes great pictures with the tutorial.  You can have these ready by the time you hit the bar tonight or before your party guests arrive.

Saint Patrick’s Day Wreath

st-pattys-wreath-crochet

For this project, you may have to go the craft store to get your supplies, but the results are well worth the effort.  If you are a fast worker, you could easily complete this in less than a day.  You can find the instructions on the Petals to Picots blog.

March Workshop: Corner to Corner (C2C)

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Corner to Corner Crochet

The Corner to Corner crochet stitch, or C2C, swept through crochet forums like wildfire a while back.  Due to its simplicity and quick build, it became a popular go-to stitch for everything from baby blankets to full size bedding options.  It has even been incorporated into some crochet clothing designs.  If you are interested in learning this stitch, follow along as we go over the steps to create it and build upon your skills.  If you already know how to do the C2C crochet stitch, don’t fret.  There’s more for you to learn too.  By the end of this workshop, you may very well be creating your own new take on the C2C stitch.

What You Will Learn

You will learn how to create the Corner to Corner crochet stitch and incorporate it however you choose.  By the end of this workshop, you will know how to create a C2C square, rectangle, and triangle in any size.  You will also learn how to incorporate C2C blocks into existing patterns and creations in many new ways that you might not have thought possible before.  You will also learn how to make a graphgan using the C2C stitch, creating pictures in your blocks or blankets.

How to Follow Along

Make sure you are following my Facebook page for Knotted Mom.  You can also follow the blog on Twitter or subscribe by clicking the “Follow” button at the bottom of this page.

Single Crochet Dishcloth Pattern

Single Crochet Dishcloth Pattern

This is by far the easiest dishcloth you will ever crochet!  The only stitch you will need to know is the single crochet along with a foundation chain and fastening off your work at the end.  This pattern is perfect for a very first project for a beginner.  The pattern is written in US crochet terms.

Single Crochet Dishcloth Pattern
Single Crochet Dishcloth Pattern

 

Materials

Crochet hook size I-9/5.5mm

Worsted weight 100% cotton yarn, such as Peaches and Cream or Hobby Lobby I Love This Cotton

Yarn needle for weaving in your ends

Abbreviations Used

Ch = chain, sc = single crochet

Instructions

Foundation: Ch 21.

Row 1: Sc into the second ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (20 sc)

Rows 2-14: Ch 1, sc into first st and each across, turn. (20 sc)

Row 15: Ch 1, sc into first st and each across, fasten off. (20 sc)

Weave in all ends.

We Got An Award

Did you see that we got an award last month?  Neither did I.

You’ve got to love Gmail and those tricky filters sending important things off to the spam folder.  Well, in case you missed it like me, you can go check out the article at feedspot.

When I first opened the link, I was surprised to see some of my knit and crochet idols, like Repeat Crafter Me and Simply Maggie.  I was thinking there was no way I was in the top one hundred pages listed with these wonderful artists, and I was right.  I scrolled through the top hundred back and forth scanning the lines for my website.  Then I realized that the list actually contained over three hundred websites and only the top hundred had a brief description.

So keep scrolling…

keep scrolling…

keep scrolling…

THERE: spot number 315!

I did get a few hits from this page, so thank you to feedspot for featuring me.  Maybe the next list I end up in will put me in the top one hundred.  For now, I’m happily working on some new things to get me there.  Namely, a YouTube channel to provide you video tutorials on all of the patterns I share here, along with the tips and tricks, and how-to’s.  There is nothing uploaded yet, but keep checking back on YouTube to see when that first video gets posted.

 

 

 

 

Harry Potter First Years Scarf Crochet Pattern

First Years Harry Potter Crochet Scarf – Knotted Mom

First Years Harry Potter Scarf Crochet Pattern

This pattern is written in US standard crochet terms.

Materials

  • Crochet Hook Size J
  • Yarn Needle
  • Scissors
  • 4-ply Worsted Weight Acrylic Yarn (you will use roughly half of an average size skein)
    • For Gryffindor
      • A = Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in Cranberry
      • B = Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in Sungold
    • For Slytherin
      • A = Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in Forest Green
      • B = Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in Arctic Ice
    • For Hufflepuff
      • A = Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in Yellow
      • B = Hobby Lobby’s I love this Yarn in Black
    • For Ravenclaw
      • A = Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in Nay Blue
      • B = Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in Light Taupe
    • Tape Measure

Gauge and Size

Standard Scarf Sizes
Standard Scarf Sizes

While gauge is not extremely necessary for this projects, if you would like to make a swatch 8 rows of 12 hdc = 4×4 inches.

Extra Tips

You may choose to begin your rows differently than the instructions.  Some people prefer to chain one and make the first hdc into the top of the final stitch from the previous row instead of using a ch 2 to count as the first hdc.  This gives you a cleaner edge and can help you keep track of your stitches.

You can also use dc instead of hdc if you would like for your scarf to have a looser draped feel or sc if you would like for your scarf to have a stiffer feel.

You may choose to weave in your ends as you go or leave them all to the end when you finish up your work.

Stitches Used

Chain and half double crochet.

Abbreviations

Ch = chain, hdc = half double crochet

Instructions

Foundation Chain and Row 1: With A ch 31, hdc into third ch from hook and each remaining ch, turn. (30 hdc)

Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc here and throughout), hdc across, turn.  (30 hdc)

Repeat Row 2, changing colors after every twelve rows, until your scarf reaches the desired length.  After the last stitch, finish off and weave in all your ends.

Tassels: Using six strands of yarn cut in lengths of twelve inches each, attach seven evenly spaced tassels in alternating colors at either end of the scarf.

©2016 Knotted Mom

Downloadable PDF and Ordering Information

If you don’t crochet, but you want one a Harry Potter First Years Scarf you can order one here.

If you want a printer friendly copy or a download to take with you on any device: First Years Harry Potter Crochet Scarf – Knotted Mom

Granny Square Poncho

Granny Square Poncho

The first clothing item I ever designed was this granny square poncho for my sweet little girl.  She was only three at the time and cute as a button.  Today, she turns five!  I can’t believe how time has flown by and how far my designing skills have come since then.  To celebrate, I’ve decided to release this pattern!  It has been tested by only one tester, so please understand that there may be some issues with it.  I am going to revisit it in the near future to make in larger sizes as well.  I will come back and edit this posting at that time.  For now, this granny square poncho will fit most children size 2T or smaller.  It is written in US crochet terms.  You can download a PDF version at the bottom of this page.

Granny Square Poncho Crochet Pattern

Granny Square Poncho

Materials:

You can choose any two colors of worsted weight acrylic yarn, but the pictured yarn is listed here as

1 skein of Red Heart Super Saver in Bikini (A)

1 skein of Red Heart Super Saver in Turqua (B)

Hook G (6 mm)

Yarn needle

 

Gauge/Tension: 3 rounds = 4 in x 4 in.  Check your gauge and change to a different size hook to obtain gauge if needed.

Stitches Used: ch, sc, dc, sl st

Size: One size fits most.  Length is approximately 12 inches from neck to corner at middle point.

Abbreviations: A = Color A; B = Color B; ch = chain; sc = single crochet; dc = double crochet; sl st = slip stitch; sp(s) = space(s); st(s) = stitch(es); () = work directions in parentheses into same st; [] = work directions in brackets the number of times specified; * = repeat whatever follows the * as indicated.

 

Instructions:

Corner Motif (make 2)

Foundation Round: With A, ch 6, sl st in first ch to form a ring.

Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc into ring, [ch 1, 3 dc into ring] 3 times, ch 1, sl st into top of ch 3.

Round 2: Sl st into next 2 dc and into ch-1 sp, ch 3 (counts as firsts dc), (2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) into ch-1 sp.  [Skip next 3 dc, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) into next ch-1 sp] 3 times, ch1, sl st into top of beginning ch 3.  Finish off.

Round 3: Join with B in any corner ch-1 sp, ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc into ch-1 sp, [skip next 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc into next ch 1 sp, skip next three dc, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) into ch-1 sp] 3 times, skip next 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc into next ch-1 sp, skip next 3 dc, ch 1, sl st into the top of ch 3.

Round 4: Sl st into next 2 dc and into ch-1 sp, ch 3 (counts as first dc), (2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) into ch-1 sp,  *[skip next 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc into next ch-1 sp] 2 times, skip next 3 dc, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) into next ch-1 sp, repeat from * 2 times, [skip next 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc into next ch-1 sp] 2 times, skip next 3 dc, ch 1, sl st into top of ch 3.

Round 5: Sl st into next 2 dc and into ch-1 sp, ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc into ch-1 sp, *[skip next 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc into next ch-1 sp] 3 times, skip next 3 dc, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) into next ch-1 sp, repeat from * 2 times, [skip next 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc into next ch-1 sp] 3 times, skip next 3 dc, ch 1, sl st into top of ch 3, finish off.

Border: Join with A at any corner ch-1 sp, ch 3 (counts as first dc), ch 1, 1 dc in next dc and every dc and ch-1 sp to next corner ch-1 sp, (dc, ch 1, dc) in corner ch-1 sp, 1 dc in each dc and ch-1 sp to next corner ch-1 sp, (dc, ch 1, dc) in corner ch-1 sp, finish off (42 dc).

 

Main Motif (make 4)

Foundation Round: With A, ch 6, sl st in first ch to form a ring.

Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc into ring, [ch 1, 3 dc into ring] 3 times, ch 1, sl st into top of ch 3.

Round 2: Sl st into next 2 dc and into ch-1 sp, ch 3 (counts as firsts dc), (2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) into ch-1 sp.  [Skip next 3 dc, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) into next ch-1 sp] 3 times, ch1, sl st into top of beginning ch 3.  Finish off.

Round 3: Join with B in any corner ch-1 sp, ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc into ch-1 sp, [skip next 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc into next ch 1 sp, skip next three dc, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) into ch-1 sp] 3 times, skip next 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc into next ch-1 sp, skip next 3 dc, ch 1, sl st into the top of ch 3.

Round 4: Sl st into next 2 dc and into ch-1 sp, ch 3 (counts as first dc), (2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) into ch-1 sp,  *[skip next 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc into next ch-1 sp] 2 times, skip next 3 dc, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) into next ch-1 sp, repeat from * 2 times, [skip next 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc into next ch-1 sp] 2 times, skip next 3 dc, ch 1, sl st into top of ch 3.

Round 5: Sl st into next 2 dc and into ch-1 sp, ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc into ch-1 sp, *[skip next 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc into next ch-1 sp] 3 times, skip next 3 dc, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) into next ch-1 sp, repeat from * 2 times, [skip next 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc into next ch-1 sp] 3 times, skip next 3 dc, ch 1, sl st into top of ch 3, finish off.

Border: Join with A at any corner ch-1 sp, ch 3 (counts as first dc), 1 dc in every dc and ch-1 sp to next corner ch-1 sp, finish off (21 dc).  Repeat on opposite side of motif.

Joining: Line up 2 Main Motifs so that the sides without borders are touching.  Lay these blocks back to back instead face to face as you do with most joining.  Working through both motifs, join with A in corner ch-1 sps, ch 3 (counts as first dc), 1 dc in next dc and each dc and ch-1 sp to next corner ch-1 sp (lining up and working through both motifs), finish off (21 dc).  Repeat this with other two main motifs.

Follow the same instructions to join the corner motifs to the main motifs.  (See diagram 1.1)

Use diagrams 1.2 and 1.3 to finish joining the motifs to create a classic poncho shape.  Use the same method as previously described for joining motifs.

Special note: When joining motifs, you should have a raised row of stitches between the motifs when laying them flat.  This will add texture to your finished product.  You can also opt to join the motifs by sewing them together in a traditional manner instead of using this method.

Raised Edge of Motifs
Raised Edge of Motifs

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Finishing

Edging: Join with B in any dc along bottom of poncho, ch 3 (counts as first dc), *skip the next dc, 5 dc in next dc, skip next dc, 1 dc in next dc, repeat from * around to first dc, sl st in first dc, finish off.

Edging/Border
Edging

Neck:

Round 1: Join with B in any dc along top edge of poncho, ch 3 (counts as first dc), 1 dc in each dc around to first dc, sl st in first dc, finish off.

Round 2: Join with A in any dc, ch 2 (counts as first sc), 1 sc in each dc around to first sc, sl st in first sc, finish off.

Use yarn needle to weave in all ends.

©2014 Christina Rinaldi-McClelland

 

Downloadable Printer-Friendly PDF

Granny Sqaure Poncho – Knotted Mom

Snowflake Boot Cuff Crochet Pattern

Snowflake Boot Cuff Crochet Pattern
Snowflake Boot Cuff Crochet Pattern

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Snowflake Boot Cuff Crochet Pattern

When I was working on the Snowflake Boot Cuff Crochet Pattern design, I decided that I wanted something a little out of the ordinary.  As I sat down to work, my daughter sang along with Disney’s Frozen.  I instantly knew what I wanted to do.  I ran upstairs and grabbed my brightest white yarn.  When I was finished, I knew I’d been successful.  My daughter looked wouldn’t take them off all day because, “I feel like Elsa,” she proclaimed.  This was probably one our best ever photo shoots, and I just wish I could put all one hundred pictures on this post.

The Written Snowflake Boot Cuff Crochet Pattern

This pattern is written in US crochet terms.

Materials

  • 4 Ply, worsted weight acrylic yarn (shown in Red Heart Super Saver)
  • Yarn needle
  • Crochet hook size J10/6.0mm

Gauge and Size

Gauge is not completely necessary for this pattern.  One size will fit most children between 6 months and 5T.  To increase or decrease the size, you may add or subtract six chains and hdcs wherever counts are noted to have enough stitches for the edging.

Extra Tips

You can change the way the rounds are joined and started to fit your preference.  Some may choose to use an invisible or slanted joining method.  You could also continue in rounds without using a slip stitch as long as your last round has a count divisible by six for the edging, IE: 18, 24, 30, etc.  You may use whatever colors you prefer or have on hand.  This pattern is great for using up any scraps you might have in your stash.  If you have any questions while completing this pattern, please feel free to email me at clrinaldi1989@gmail.com.

Stitches Used

Ch, sc, dc, hdc, sl st

Abbreviations

Ch=chain, sc=single crochet, hdc=half double crochet, dc=double crochet, sl st=slip stitch, st(s)=stitch(es), sk st(s)=skip stitch(es), sp=space

Instructions

Round 1: With blue, ch 24, join with sl st in first ch, ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in each ch around, join with sl st in top of first hdc (24 hdc).

Round 2-5: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), hdc in each hdc around, sl st in top of first hdc (24 hdc).

Fasten off blue and join with white in first hdc.

Round 6: Ch 1, sc in same st, *ch 2, sk next 2 hdc, 3 dc in next hdc, ch 2, sk next 2 hdc, sc in next hdc, reapeat from * around, join with a sl st in first sc. See figure 1.

Round 7: Ch 5 (counts as first dc, ch 2), *(sc, ch 3, sc) in sp between first and second dc (see figures 2 and 3), ch 5, (sc, ch 3, sc) in sp between second and third dc (see figure 4), ch 2, dc in next sc, ch 2, repeat from * around, join with a sl st in first dc (third ch from beginning ch 5) fasten off.

Weave in all ends with yarn needle.

Figure 1
Figure 1
Figure 2
Figure 2
Figure 3
Figure 3
Figure 4
Figure 4

 

©Knotted Mom 2015

Crocheting in the Car

Crocheting in the Car - Knotted Mom

Crocheting in the Car

Some people are able to just grab their things and go and are not extremely concerned about particulars when it comes to crocheting in the car.  I, on the other hand, can only work on certain projects.  I’m very particular about what yarn I’m using, the hooks I have on hand, and other tools we often need (and let’s not forget about a way to store all of the previously mentioned goodies).  If you have never worked on a project while traveling, you may want to start.  It can help fight off boredom and reduce stress.  In the rest of this article, I’ll review all of my tips to make crocheting in the car, bus,boat, train, plane, submarine, or whatever your means of transportation worthwhile.  Oh, and one other thing to mention before we get started, please don’t crochet while you are the one driving.  Make sure to use your DDC (Designated Driver for Crocheting).  The rest of what I say in the following is all just suggestions and what works best for me.

Why You Should Try Crocheting in the Car

Do you have anxiety about road conditions or other drivers?  If you answered yes, crocheting in the car can be just what you need to distract you from your surroundings.  It gives you something to repeat, which releases a happy endorphin, ultimately calming your nerves.  If you get bored on long trips but don’t enjoy readying, crocheting could be something for you to do to keep yourself from the doldrums.

Types of Projects

This one may apply to some and not to others, but for myself this has been a very good rule to follow.  I get very distracted while on the road.  I like to look at the scenery, my husband and I like to chat, and my kids always need something right when I get going.  Due to these reasons, it’s better for me to work on a project that is on a beginner or easy skill level.  If the pattern has a lot of counting or different directions for every row or round, forget it.  It’s not happening.  So that virus shawl and that graphgan will just have to wait their turn.  If you’re not like me, meaning you can actually pay attention to what you’re working on and don’t have little ones asking, “Are we there yet,” a million times, than you could probably disregard this whole section and work on whatever your heart desires.

Supplies for Crocheting in the Car

Yarn and Hooks

The first thing I tend to look at is my yarn since that determines the majority of the rest of your supplies.  Working with crochet thread is not recommended due to the strain on your eyes.  I get dizzy just thinking about it.  The same goes for any yarn in the color black or other very dark colors.  Trust me, you will need to rest your eyes a whole lot if you want to attempt this daring feat.  I find that a thicker yarn is easier to work with, which leads me to hooks.  The bigger, the better.  No sound is worse than the clanking of that size F hook rolling down under the seat, and nothing will agitate you more than trying to retrieve that thin little hook from the floor while you’re going down the highway.  Something with a comfort grip will come in handy as well.  If you’re like me, when you try to get comfortable after sitting in the same seat for hours, you might put your arms in strange positions that can make you use your wrists and arms differently.  A lighted hook can also do wonders for you eyes and make sure your project turns out perfectly.  You can buy lighted crochet hooks from Amazon.  They might make working with darker colors more tolerable.

Extras

Scissor safety is one of the most important things to me.  If we were ever in a wreck and one of us were injured by my crafting scissors, I would never forgive myself.  I tend to leave those at home and instead opt for ones with blunt tips.  If for some reason I decide to bring my crafting ones, which are super-pointy and razor sharp, I stick them safely in the glove box.  You might also need a needle to weave in your tails.  I recommend bringing a blunt one and putting it somewhere that doesn’t give it the opportunity to roll away.  Another item I frequently recommend is a headlamp.  No, you’re not going to crochet in a cave (but if you really are, please tell me all about it).  If your driver is like mine, then the map lights or reading lights are out of the question.  Just make sure you remember to turn your light off before you turn your head in his or her direction, so you don’t potentially blind them.

Storage Suggestions for Crocheting in the Car

You can really go with whatever makes you the most comfortable with this topic.  If you keep your car really clean, I envy you you may not really worry if your yarn falls on the floor.  I leave my yarn in a bag that opens at the top, like a tote or 31 bag, and work from the center or the skein or leave enough room for the ball to roll around a bit.  This keeps it from getting covered in leaves and other dirt (and probably gum from the bottom of my boots or a half-eaten lollipop from the bank drive thru).  This is also the reason I recommend working with smaller projects while traveling.  There’s less of a chance that your work will become soiled, and less chance of unwanted frogging.  It’s also a great idea to have a storage solution that gives you different places to keep things separated.  I have a round caddy from 31 that has a flat bottom and pockets the entire way around.  C’est parfait!

Summary

I hope all of the tips and suggestions I provided were helpful.  Do you have a favorite project to crochet on the go?  I’d love to hear about it in the comments below.  If you have anything to share that you think would help others interested in this topic, please comment that as well.  You never know, your comment on this article could help the next person that’s looking for advice about crocheting in the car.